Fourth Stop // Amalfi Coast
If you were only allowed to travel to one place in this world, I would highly suggest the Amalfi Coast. It is the sea and the mountains. It is breathtaking.
Part of me doesn’t want to tell you where we stayed because I want to keep it a secret, and the other part of me hopes you don’t believe me at all! But, we stayed at Hotel Marmorata, which is a Best Western Hotel. I know… you’re shaking your head, and thinking, “gross!” That’s fine, I hope you never go, never discover why this hotel is such a gem and in turn, never drive up the ridiculously low rates.
Turns out, Best Westerns are the cat’s meow in Europe. Who knew! We actually picked this hotel because it is walking distance into Minori, which has “sand” (read: really small rocks, hard rocks) beaches. But, we never went to those beaches because the hotel is built into the mountain and the pool sits right on the Mediterranean Sea. Jackpot.
Being on the coast, was the part of the trip where we relaxed. During the day, we drank, had lunch & slept, by the sea
Then we would venture into Minori for dinner at Il Giardiniello or A Ricetta and finish off with dessert and night caps at Sal De Riso. You will need reservations for both of the dinner spots, as Minori is small and the locals are eating here just as much as the tourists. At A Ricetta is where I learned this Tip! Pace Yourself! Italians eat in courses: aperitivo (dranks), antipasto, first (pasta), second (meat & fish), salad, dessert & coffee, digestivo (more dranks).
All these courses can get a foodie into trouble at a small local spot, where owners like Maria Lucia, are also the chef and visit your table. I made the mistake of not finishing my gnocchi, in order to leave room for the meat course, and she appeared out of no where wanting to know, “you no like my pasta?” I don’t scare easily, but Maria Lucia scares the shit out of me and I highly advise you eat her gnocchi.
While writing, I found that Sal’s has been closed down, and I’m banking on my husband never reading this and finding out this devastating news. Rest easy Sals, you’ll be missed!
I know that Positano is all the rage on the Amalfi Coast, but I am telling you that Ravello is the town that you truly don’t want to miss. Tip! Staying in towns like Maiori, Minori & Ravello are much cheaper than Amalfi & Positano, with more of a local feel.
I highly suggest you take a taxi up & down, but if you’re mad at your husband for eating gelato without you, you can make him take the 2000+ stairs back down. However, you both will pay for that. While you’re up there, be sure to check out all the beautiful dishes, grab a pizza at Villa Maria and tour the gardens at Villa Cimbrone.
There are lots of ways you can see the whole coast and Capri from the water. There are ferries that stop at each town’s port, like a bus! There are semi-private boat tours that you share with a small group and there are private mini-cruises. We opted for the private cruise with Capone Servizi Marittimi and thought it was worth every penny. It’s an 8 hour day where you create the plan. You can stop at Capri & Positano, see the Faraglioni, Li Galli & all the grottos, stop for lunch, and get swimming time in places that can only be reached by boat. Tip! Avoid wasting time or money by checking Tripadvisor for reviews when deciding to spending a lot of money or time on one activity!
“I am not the same having seen the moon shine on the other side of the world.”
Mary Ann Radmacher